Where’s BabZ | Talisman Travel Tribe

View Original

Get Ready: An Adventure in Valparaiso and Santiago

There are days. Feels like the planets align. Synchronicity is in full force. Sun shines. Life is good. It was the people, our tour guide, places, street art and food that will mark this in my memory. Enjoy the photos.

Finally disembarking permanently from a 50+ day cruise around South America and Antarctica – that day was January 20, 2024. I don’t usually share a tour information but this one was unique and showcased a part of Chile a place I would return to. See Where’s BabZ Travel Tip at the end.

There are many tours from the ports of Valparaiso or San Antonio, Chile. I chose this one ($129) for the land it covered from the coast of Viña del Mar into the vineyard dotted countryside to the city of Santiago. Isabel our Stamps Tours guide and Rodrigo our driver are wonderful. They enjoyed sharing their knowledge as well as their love of their city and country.

On or off the ship, Viator is usually my first stop for tours – offering cancellation options, back up if something goes wrong and reviews.

Next time, I will stay in Viña del Mar. A lovely oceanside city about 40 minutes west of Santiago, Chile. It is full of beauty with the classic Malecon for walking above the sparkling sea. Almost every city in South America rises from the shore into hills and mountains offering views up and down the coast. It was good to see the ocean from a stationary place.

A walking tour of Valparaiso is a photographer’s heaven. Colorful buildings, murals, street art and galleries everywhere. Including the Museo Fonck with a Moai from Easter Island.

We unexpectedly walked into a special art opening at Bahía Utópica Galería de Arte.  Showcasing the engraving (block prints) of Loro Coirón who was there! He is French-born artist who spends his time in Valparaiso and France. Loro has taken engraving to another level creating large scale block prints including one 10 meters long for the National Congress building in Valparaiso. This was a very special and unique opportunity to see the Valparaiso art and community come together. Block printing/engraving is something I learned and loved as a child but never imagined at this scale and beauty.

Because many coastal communities are on the cerros (hills), they maintain many funiculars or elevators to save walking many steps. Who doesn’t love a funicular? Take your pick or ride them all in Valpo! We took the Ascensor Concepcion an historical monument in Valparaiso.

Lunch at Café Turri in Valpo on a terrace, overlooking the sea, under a canopy of linen moving in the breeze as we ate fresh fresh tuna tartar and salads with beer and great service was the perfect spot for a rest after walking through Valpo. So engrossed in conversation no photos were taken!

As if these Valparaiso and Viña del Mar stops weren’t enough, we drove to the countryside of Chile. We know Chile has great wine but had no expectations of what a vineyard experience would be – and frankly didn’t care. The sun was shining, a light breeze followed us and  Casas del Bosque vineyards was yet another feast for the eyes and palette. Who knew the Casablanca area of Chile shares similar weather to Napa Valley? But the drive back reminded me of the sandy colored hills and valleys of California. With more than 30 years of wine making, Casas has created a new vineyard experience – devoid of pretense.

Sharing their sustainable practices, offering bikes to tour the area and vineyard, three restaurants and of course wine tastings all in a most comfortable, welcoming environment of patios with cushioned chairs and sunshine. Private tastings rooms for 20, chocolates, local art and gifts. Napa Valley 4.0 in Chile. A perfect end to a lovely day. So satisfying.

In the large barrel room (please do not to lean, move or open the barrels), we tasted their “house” Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Neither were favorites of mine (preferring Pinot Noir and Malbec) until yesterday and possibly only Casas will ever do again! I am not a wine expert and in the interest of your time, I will spare you the tasting notes. They have a broad range of wines all available to the North American market. I would be delighted to share with any friends or housesit hosts.

And on that note the official tour ended and we drove into Santiago to deposit my fellow cruisers at the airport or our local hotels. 

As we entered Santiago city, you see bright, shiny high rises in the city and suburban centers. Looking more American than old school Lima or Buenos Aires. Sleek, mirrored architecture rising high into the sky. On this sunny day, the large parks filled with locals on bikes, families with picnics, children playing. And the homeless like everywhere in the world camped with the main road on one side and river on the other. Downtown Santiago looked like a mishmash of older buildings with no insides, just façade. Some permanently closed and gated store fronts full of graffiti. And other sections of functioning fountains, residential and corporate buildings looking neat as a pin.

And the day is not quite over…….. Discovering Santiago+ starts this week including one of many “free” GuruWalks (pay/tips how you value the tour) and tour to the Andes, Inca lagoon and more wine – oh my!

Where’s BabZ Travel Tip:

Getting from the cruise ports of Valparaiso or San Antonio to hotels or airport is easy. Cost is between $2-40 from bus transport to $90-$120 for a taxi or $130 for the tour I shared here. They all end up wherever you need to be at the end of the day. Check out tour options here.

Most often, international flights from Santiago leave late in the evening. This gives you an entire day to enjoy the tour OR sit in the airport OR wait for your hotel to be ready. Sort of a no brainer taking a tour that gets you to your end spot anyway. You’re welcome. 